In short: Long-wear eye pencils usually combine film-forming polymers, volatile solvents, silicone oils and synthetic waxes to lock colour onto the skin. LÜK eye crayons use nourishing botanical oils and plant waxes instead. They're softer, more comfortable and easy to remove, but they're not waterproof. It's a different set of priorities, and the right choice depends on what you want from your eye makeup.
Have you ever wondered why one eye pencil survives a swim while another feels creamy and melts into your lid? It comes down to what's in the formula. Here's what goes into a typical long-wear pencil, and why we chose a different approach.
How long-wear eye pencils work
Most long-wear and waterproof eye pencils rely on four groups of ingredients working together.
1. Film-forming polymers: the lock
These create a microscopic, flexible film over the skin that locks pigment in place, giving long wear, transfer resistance and water resistance. Common examples include trimethylsiloxysilicate, acrylates copolymer, acrylates/dimethicone copolymer and polypropylsilsesquioxane.
2. Volatile solvents: the drying phase
These help the colour spread evenly, then evaporate (or "flash off"), leaving the film and pigment behind. Common examples are isododecane and cyclopentasiloxane.
3. Silicone oils: the slip
Silicone oils give a silky glide, improve spreadability and add water resistance, working hand in hand with the film formers. Dimethicone and phenyl trimethicone are two of the most common.
4. Waxes: the structure
Waxes form the backbone of the pencil, holding the pigment and influencing hardness, glide and wear. Long-wear pencils often use synthetic waxes such as polyethylene or microcrystalline wax.
Why long-wear pencils are harder to remove
That engineered film is designed to resist water, perspiration, skin oils and rubbing. It's great for staying power, but it's also why waterproof eye makeup often needs an oil-based remover and extra cleansing effort around the delicate eye area.
A different formulation philosophy
We want to be clear: we're not saying these ingredients are bad for you. Many have been reviewed by the independent Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel and found safe as used in cosmetics. We simply chose to prioritise different things.
Instead of locking colour on, our Luminous Eye Crayons are made with organic coconut oil, organic carnauba wax and plant-derived emollients, with antioxidant vitamin E and oryzanol. They're coloured with mineral pigments and are 100% natural origin, calculated in accordance with ISO 16128.
Side by side
| Conventional long-wear eye pencils | LÜK Luminous Eye Crayons |
|---|---|
| Built for maximum wear | Built for comfort and blendability |
| Waterproof and transfer resistant | Soft, creamy, buildable colour |
| Film-forming polymers, silicones and volatile solvents | Botanical oils and plant waxes |
| Can take more effort to remove | Removes easily with a gentle cleanser |
| Often a firmer, more precise line | Blends with your fingertips |
| Packaging varies | Sustainably grown wooden pencil, 100% PCR lid |
The honest trade-off
Because our formula is rich in nourishing oils and waxes, it behaves differently. Depending on your skin type and lid shape, the colour may soften or settle into the natural creases of your lid during the day. A quick blend with your fingertip or a light sweep of colour is usually all it takes to refresh. Our guide to keeping cream eye colour in place has more tips.
Which is right for you?
It's your choice. If you need eye makeup that survives a swim, a humid wedding or a long day without touch-ups, a long-wear pencil may suit you better. If you'd rather have colour that feels comfortable, blends in seconds and washes off easily, a creamy crayon is a lovely fit.
A note on the environment
Some volatile silicones, particularly cyclopentasiloxane (D5) and related cyclic silicones, break down slowly and can persist in the environment. This has led Europe to restrict their use in some cosmetic products. It's one more reason we're happy formulating without them.
FAQs
Are LÜK eye crayons waterproof?
No. They're made with botanical oils and plant waxes rather than the film formers and silicones that make a pencil waterproof.
Do LÜK eye crayons contain silicones?
No. They're formulated without silicones, as well as fragrance, FD&C dyes, parabens, mineral oil and petroleum-derived ingredients.
Are silicones in makeup harmful?
Current evidence doesn't show that the silicones and film formers commonly used in eye cosmetics are harmful when used as intended. We've simply chosen a formula built around nourishing botanical ingredients and comfort.
Shop the range: Luminous Eye Crayons — eight wearable shades of creamy, 100% natural origin eye colour, made in Italy.
Cindy Luken
Founder, LÜK Beautifood
Cindy Luken is a serial entrepreneur and food scientist with 25 years of experience, holding a Bachelor of Applied Science in Food and Nutrition and an Honorary Master of Science from the University of Newcastle. She started in the lab, then built and exited her first venture, Luken & May Biscuits, sold on Qantas flights and in stores worldwide. In 2012 she founded LÜK Beautifood, the world's first cosmetics line made from food active ingredients, and has since won more than 20 awards, including an Innovation Prize from the Prime Minister of Australia.